How do I measure a single breasted jacket (bespoke)?

If you use the "Bespoke" section when it comes to measuring jackets (meaning you don't use try-ons), here is how you should proceed:

• Select the cut your customer desires. Basically, the cut accounts for the allowance given to the chest, the waist and the seat of the jacket.
• In order to respect your customers' proportions, we suggest that you always keep in mind the overall look of the garments you create when inputting measurements.

Chest:

• Put the measuring tape on the most prominent part of the chest.
• Make sure the tape is leveled.
• The tape should be held firmly, without being tightened.
• Ask the client to take a deep breath and input the measurement you see when the chest is at full stretch.
• The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.

Waist:

• Put the measuring tape on the narrowest part of the waist. Usually, it is around the belly button.
• Make sure the tape is leveled.
• Input the measurement you read.
• The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.

Seat:

• Put the measuring tape on the most prominent part of the seat.
• Make sure the tape is leveled.
• Input the measurement you read.
• The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.

Finished biceps:

• Put the measuring tape on the fullest part of the bicep.
• Depending on the customer's shape, add from 1.25" to 3" of allowance (or more if needed).

Neck base:

• This is basically a skin neck measurement.
• Put the measuring tape on the neck base.
• Input the skin measurement.

Shoulder:

• Measure the shoulders from point to point.
  

Sleeves:

• Put the measuring tape on the shoulder point (sleeves are NOT measured from the center of the yoke).
• Ask your client to keep his arms along his body.
• Measure from the shoulder point to the base of the wrist.

Waist button position:

• Put the measuring tape on the shoulder seam, where it attaches to the collar.
• Measure to where you want the jacket to fasten.
• Usually, the first button is placed a little above the belly button.

Back length:

• Put the measuring tape on the collar seam (on the back, where the collar attaches to the shoulders).
• Measure to where the customer wants his jacket to finish.
• Usually, we will measure to 0.75" above the lowest part of the seat.

Sleeve opening:

• Put the measuring tape on the elbow.
  
• Add around 0.5" to the skin elbow measurement to get the sleeve opening.

High Point Shoulder to Apex:

• Locate the high point of the shoulder where it meets the base of the neck (At the seam where the shoulder meets the collar).
  
• Find the Apex. The apex refers to the most prominent point of the chest (usually over the bust point for women)
• Place the measuring tape at the high point shoulder (HPS)
• Extend the tape in a straight line down to the apex.
• Ensure the measuring tape follows the body’s natural curve
• Make sure the client is standing upright with their shoulders relaxed

NB: Please note that all the measurement sections that are grey (not black) are NOT mandatory.